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full brows

Pro Secrets for Bold Brows

Written on March 24, 2014 at 12:28 pm , by

We got the memo—full brows are in (hello, Cara Delevigne!). There’s just one problem: if you don’t have them, how can you get them? We called on eyebrow extraordinaire and owner of Sania’s Brow Bar in NYC, Sania Vucetaj, to explain the ins and outs of filling in your brows, so they don’t end up looking like crazy caterpillars.

What’s the biggest issue women have with eyebrow shaping?
“The shape needs to be as symmetrical and full as possible; full in a flattering way. But many people think you should be adding pencil throughout the whole brow, when in fact, it should just be used to outline the brow. Because you already have hairs in the brows center and sparseness is usually around the brow. The best bet is to outline the shape and then blend it in using a clean spooley (a clean mascara brush). The color will then go through the brow to achieve a natural look.”

What’s your favorite brow powder or pencil?
“I actually have my own brow pencil called the Sania’s Brow Bar Angled Mechanical Brow Pencil ($30, saniasbrowbar.com). [Ed note: this is one of our fave’s too!] The formulation of the pencil gives you the precision of a pencil but also the soft smoothness of a powder to help you achieve the most natural look. The pencil comes in three natural shades: light, medium and dark. The unique angle of the pencil is shaped like a brush so that it mimics the brow for easy application. It also comes with a spooley on the opposite end for blending.“

How do you know what shade is best for you?
“You should stay as true to your natural color as possible. When in doubt, pick a shade a little lighter. If you want to darken your brows, pick a slightly darker shade. If you want to soften brows, pick a slightly lighter color. The beauty of pencils is you can mix and match!“

Walk us through the steps of filling in. Where do you start?
“You would take the wide angle of the pencil and start with filling in just the center of the brows. Then, with the thin edge of the pencil, outline the top of the brow while lifting the arch area. Next, outline with the thin edge underneath the brow, where sparseness usually occurs. Then blend with the brush in upward strokes for beautiful, natural-looking brows!”

Is there anyone who should not fill in their brows?
“If someone has really full, prominent brows, they may not want to. But for the most part, everyone has a bit of sparseness in their brows and can benefit from using a little pencil to perfect them.“

—Chelsea Burns, beauty intern